Tuesday, February 26, 2008

La Candelaria

Everyone I talked told me that I went to Los Cabos I just had to make a trip out to Todos Santos. Like, OMG you haven't lived till you've scene how AMAZING it is. Well I didn't make it quite that far, but thanks to Baja Outback Tours, I was able to make it to La Candelaria, a little pueblo oasis that's usually a pit stop on the way. If Todos Santos is anything like La Candelaria, I'll have to make sure I get there next time, too. Oregon native Lorna Hankins makes all of the expats living in gated communities in places like Lake Chapala and Loreto look like a bunch of amateur wussies. Not only does she live with no air conditioning and limited electricity, but she has also mastered a pre-hispanic ceramic ceramic style that involves digging up clay during certain phases of the moon, but she also passed the craft along to other local women. Maybe its just 'cause she's from Oregon.
La Candelaria was once known for its population of curanderos, or witch doctors. Hankins pays homage to this tradition with her choice of gate decorations.

This turquoise altar was a striking site among the brown and green hues of the desert landscape.

Did you know there was such a thing as an alpha cow? These cunning cattle have the distinct honor of being the smartest cow in the herd. When there's a fresh crop of little bovines the ranchers leave them out in the middle of the desert to see which one finds its way home first. The winner gets to wear a bell around its neck and answer, "yes" when the other cows ask,"Do you think you're the boss of me?" These guys were hanging out on the road we took through the desert. I couldn't tell which one was in charge.